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ALLOGNY (18 Cher): Aire Communale

South of Allogny on D944, at the ‘Étang Communale’. This a piece of ‘old road’ with a pleasant picnic area as well as a ‘Borne’ for waste dump and fresh water. The Étang is more of a reservoir but it’s a pleasant and reasonably quiet place for an overnight stop.[photo]    [2002]

Amenities: Baker and cafes in the village.

Arbois is a small but well-known wine town. The most suitable parking for a motorhome appears to be at the 'Champ de Mars', which is SP  with a large 'P' placed above an arcade of shops in the main square and is up a very narrow road to the right of here. Market Day is Friday and 1st.Sunday and the market is normally held on the Champ de Mars, so avoid it Thursday night. Markets are also held elsewhere in the town - take careful note of 'Déviation' signs! Opposite the entrance to the Champ de Mars is the 'Fruitière Vinicole d'Arbois' wine co-operative shop: head here for dégustation! Henri Maire, known to the world for 'Vin Fou' but actually a much more serious wine producer, has his shop and tasting centre on the main square. For excellent 'glaces maison' the pâtisserie opposite the Tourist Office (Hôtel de Ville) takes some beating. Bread and croissants in Arbois are provided by the justly-celebrated Boulangerie 'Horbach' on av.Pasteur, reached before coming to the house of Louis Pasteur [photo]. He conducted his experiments on antibiotics here and the house is largely unchanged from his day. Regular guided visits in French (English printed translation available). ATAC supermarket with fuel on route de Besançon. [2004]

'Les Sources', listed as 5km. out of Beaufort but I think it's less. It is on D925 in the direction of the Col de Méraillet and Lac de Roselend. Too far for an easy walk, the road is steeply uphill in places, but the site is open for a longer season than the Municipal which is located before the village proper (when arriving from Albertville). Les Sources has excellent modern heated 'sanitaires' 9/10 and is relatively small. Flat grass mostly with electricity available, in a totally wild location. A splendid base for exploring an area of outstanding natural beauty, walking or cycling for the very fit. [2002]

Amenities: all at Beaufort: cafés -- restaurants -- provisions shops -- cash machines -- weekly market Wednesday -- co-operative cheese producer with visits available.

Recommended: Hotel du Grand-Mont in place de l'Église. A Logis which does good Savoyard fare, there is a cash machine just round the corner.

A driving tour up to the Lac de Roselend and to the Cormet de Roselend 1967m. Even in late May there is snow around and you are likely to find Gentian and Soldanella in flower at this time, as well as the occasional Orchid. When the weather is clear it's possible to see Mont Blanc. The mountain café 'Pierra Menta' , overlooking the lake and barrage on the road which leads back up to the Col du Pré and to Arèches does excellent lunch fare with Savoyard specialities. The road back to Beaufort via Arèches is very picturesque but very narrow in parts without many 'passing' places.

The Wednesday market in Beaufort for genuine Beaufort cheese, price according to age. Cheese is classed as 'Alpage' if it has been made in the high pastures during spring and summer, or 'winter cheese' if made when the cattle are back down in the farms for the winter. The 'Alpage' is rated more highly.

BELMONT-DE-LA-LOIRE (42 Loire):   Aire Communale

Listed in the Guide as at the Church, and indeed there are signs showing 'dump for camping-cars'. But it was found that while there are two marked spaces in shade at the side of the church, with two water taps and electricity sockets - all apparently free, there is no road-level grating for emptying waste water or toilet. A shame as it's a pleasant little village with several bars and places to eat. See [photo] , showing a car occupying one of the marked spaces. [2004]

At Destinea-Leneveu, the Motorhome sales group. It’s well SP from the northbound D514 from Caen, but not from the Ouistreham end. If going south, take the first Benouville exit and Destinea is ahead of you before going under the N road. If travelling north note the roadside advertising signs for Destinea, it’s the last exit for Benouville; this way go under the N road and turn immediately left SP Zone d’Activités. Marked spaces with free electricity and fresh water, but the proximity of the electricity to the water is a little worrying. Lots of mosquitoes in September. I rate this quite a safe place to stop overnight (better than the quay at Ouistreham) as there are likely to be several other motorhomes in residence. [2002]

Fuel: there is a very large Esso fuel station just off the large roundabout at the south end of Ouistreham where the D514 dual-carriageway begins. This has some pumps which take Euronotes when the kiosk is closed. Intermarché also nearby.

Berck has two locations where overnight parking by MH is tolerated, both are at the south end of the town. Parking on the promenade ('the front') by vehicles over 2.2m in height is not permitted. The main area in use as an 'aire de stationnement' is near the Lighthouse, which can be seen from some distance. Proceed into Berck off the roundabout on the D940/junction with D303 from A16/J25, following SP for 'Hôpital Maritime', but continue ahead at a junction where the road ahead has 'Dead End' signs and the SP for Hôpital Maritime shows right. MH parked among the dunes will probably be visible at the end of the road. The second 'aire' is a parking area [ photo ] outside the Hôpital Maritime on Avenue de St.Exupéry -- follow the SP and MH will probably be parked to the right or left of the hospital entrance, which is on your left about 500m after the junction mentioned above. No facilites at either location. [2005]

Berck is a typical northern France seaside town full of seasonal apartments, cafes, bars and brasseries. Moules, Crepes, snacks and drinks can be had at a multitude of outlets along the promenade, but there are some better restaurants and bistrots as well. We ate at Brasserie 'L'Époque' on Esplanade Parmentier ('the front') , which provided good quality oysters and decent meat dishes as well as mussels ('plats' euro 8-14, dozen oysters euro 15.80). The bars and creperies tend to close fairly early on Sunday evenings whereas the brasseries stay open longer.

Recommended : A visit to the 'Parc Ornithologique du Marquenterre' near Rue about 25km. south of Berck. This is an extremely important international site for ducks and wading birds. It also hosts a breeding colony of Herons, Little Egrets and White Storks which are a joy to behold in early Spring. Well worth a whole day visit, there are marked trails with suggested timing of 1, 2 and 3 hours duration. Access to the site is from the D940 at Rue and it's well signposted from all directions. Charges 2005 euro 9.60 for adults, family tickets available. It opens at 1000hrs., closes 1700 in 'winter season' and 1900hrs. in 'summer season'. It's possible to go out for lunch and return afterwards -- ask for a hand-stamp. There is a café on site serving a range of drinks and snacks, for something more substantial we chose to eat at the Auberge de la Dune at 80550 St.Firmin les Crotoy, located at the road junction of the D4 and the D204. If you have followed the SP for the Parc you will not miss it. Very popular for Sunday lunch, menus euro 18-35 and excellent food.

Boulogne is in our opinion a far more interesting town to visit than is Calais, but parking a motorhome is a nightmare. The best solution so far discovered is to head for the 'Ville Haute' and find a space at Parking 'Mariette' just outside the walls. This is free and consequently very full, but the marked spaces are completely ignored and as long as you don't block another vehicle's way out it seems usually possible to find space. Mondays are much emptier than other days, due to the number of shops which are closed on Monday. This parking can be approached from the A16 junction with the N1, following SP to 'Ville Haute' and then turning right at the roundabout in front of the gateway in the town walls: take first entrance to your left. If approaching from the bottom of the town or the ferry port, go up the Grande Rue (main shopping street) again following 'Ville Haute' SP and you will see SP to 'Parking Mariette': follow the road around the park and take first entrance on the right into the parking. It's easiest if you have a copy of the Michelin Red Guide, which marks this parking area on the Boulogne town map. There is a rectangular area marked out for 'BUS': it would be wise not to park on this unless there are lots of cars/other vehicles on it already, anyhow most of the buses using it will be British. [2005]

Boulogne has some notable food and clothing shops: the cheesemonger Phillipe Olivier is internationally renowned, his shop at 43 rue Thiers is like an Aladdin's Cave of cheeses, all superbly kept. On the rue de Lille at the top of the walled town is an Artisan Boulanger with breads of real taste, and almost opposite a Café/Salon de Thé for a late breakfast -- these two are both open on Mondays. At the bottom of the town 'Bourgeois' on rue de La Lampe is one of the best traiteurs/charcuterie shops (closed Monday), while further up on Grande Rue (opposite the church) are 'Aux Pêcheurs d'Étaples' -- the fish and shellfish restaurant (moules around euro 10, other fish and shellfish 'plats' euro 10-20, menus around euro 20-40 and 'plats de fruits de mer' up to euro 40) -- and two doors up from it 'Dessert aux Desserts', a mouth-watering patisserie shop (closed Monday)

Port du Chapus, at the end of the road beyond Bourcefranc which used to connect with ferries to Isle d’Oleron. Now there is a bridge. The area set aside for motorhomes is at the beginning of the former ferry approach road and there is a ‘borne’ adjacent. But this spot is liable to be blocked in by articulated lorries and oyster farmers’ trucks, so some motorhomes park against the sea wall where it is more open. The area is a bit scruffy but there is constant coming-and-going of oyster barges and the views towards Fort Louvois and Isle d’Oleron are interesting. A good area for cycling with specific maps available from Tourist Office on the main square in Bourcefranc, next to La Poste. [photo]   [2002]

Amenities: Café – Hotel/Restaurant – Fish Restaurant – Fishing Gear Shop – Supermarket with fuel in Bourcefranc itself.

Recommended: Fish restaurant ‘Le Grand Bleu’ –--

Hotel ‘Le Terminus’ for a good view –--

Cycle to Marennes and La Cayenne for the best oysters I have tasted. The small shed with attached canopy -- about half-way between Marennes and La Cayenne -- does a great choice of platters, there are several more direct sales outlets in La Cayenne itself as well as restaurants.  1-hour boat trips around the oyster beds from the landing stage at the very end of the road.

South of Pont-Audemer. Authorised for 24hr. stay.

Approaching from the South (St.Georges-du-Vievre) on rural road D29, the village square is roughly triangular with some trees, Cafe-Restaurant to the right. Ahead the village Church. Turn right at the Church (parking spaces on the left) and immediately before the T-junction (100m.) a drive to the left which goes to the former presbytery house. Sign at the corner. Go through gates, Camper Service Point is immediately on your right -- water point, waste water and black waste dump at ground level. From the North D810 and D29 from Pont-Audemer turn Left immediately on passing the Church and before the tree-lined square. Overnight parking presumed to be in front of the Church, since there is not much space within the presbytery area. A tranquil place. [1998]

Amenities: Café nearby.

'La Tisarne'. On the N20 north of Toulouse, a very small 'farm' site populated apparently by single workers and weekenders from Toulouse. Very welcoming owner who speaks English. Literally just off the N20 going north just after the D6 sp. Verdun-sur-Garonne and about 3km. S.of the A62 interchange J.10. Not in the village of Campsas at all. Hot showers and washbasins but in a newish breeze-block 'shed' with sheet roof - rather cramped. Rating 4/10. Electricity available - French sockets - but I am not sure I would trust it. Bread van calls at 0900. FFr.50 per night which is probably rather expensive but it was an interesting experience. We were tired and it was fine for an overnight stop. [1998]

A new Aire for 2007, on N43 on eastern edge of the town in the direction of Catillon (q.v.) and La Capelle. On edge of Parc Lucien Dorin, with an information board at the entrance [ photo ], 4 marked MH spaces (there is room for more) and a splendid new full-size Raclet borne - no charge for fresh water nor electricity and ground level dump. Half-way up the hill out of the town, there are small MH Aire signs but they are not very visible. Aire is an easy 10min. walk to centre.

Le Cateau is well worth a visit: a small town but with two important assets, the Matisse Museum (in centre, Palais Fenelon) and the Ancien Brasserie de l'Abbaye (SP as 'Brasserie Historique'). We ate at Hostellerie du Marché (a Logis) on the corner of the crossroads (rue Landrecies) at the top of the town: excellent and very good value; and at 'La Malterie', the brewery tavern, also excellent in an informal bistro style [ photo ] with the bonus of the brewery beers on tap - note that it maintains restricted opening hours: the bar is open Wed & Thurs 1030-1500, Fri 1030-1500 + 1800-2230, Sat 1030-2230 and Sun 1030-1900, but the restaurant is only open Fri & Sat from 1200 and from 1930, plus Wed, Thurs & Sun only open for Lunch from 1200. The whole site is closed all day Mon & Tues. Check their cool website www.brasserielecateau.com !

A lovely aire beside the canal [ photo ] and on N43, with free electricity and fresh water. Roadside ground-level grating for waste water, but the grid size is very small and I judged it inconsiderate to dump my toilet tank contents onto it. Arriving from the direction of Le Cateau, the Aire is just over the bascule bridge and on the right. Advisable to back into the space chosen and take care not to end up in the canal! Downside is that although there are 6 marked spaces, each space is only 2.0m wide - I measured them - so it's impossible for 6 MHs to park here. 4 is the practical maximum but one French MH parked at the end of the tarmac where the sign reads 'access for authorised vehicles only'. There is a café/bar on the main road and a boulangerie, but not much else.

Camping Municipal

At the edge of this small town, near the ‘Sapeurs Pompiers’ and Collège. A pleasant site on the side of a wooded hill, with decent-sized pitches. Quiet out of season, rate euro 7.50, which seemed good value. Sanitaires rated 7/10. [2002]

Amenities: Cafes – Restaurants – Bakers – Shops – Supermarket with fuel - interesting old town with connections to François Mitterand, who was Mayor 1956-1979 and donated to the town a copy of a Jean Tinguely animated fountain ‘installation’ [ photo ]. It’s well worth stopping in the town just to see this, on Place François Mitterand. Tourist Office on the main square in the centre where the main roads meet.

Recommended: There is an excellent ‘patissier-glacier’ through the town gate opposite where the tourist office is situated and about 50m. on the right. –-

South of Epernay - Champagne region.

‘Champagne Lagache-Lecourt’

This is the hard standing area beside the house of a champagne producer, and can accommodate 2 motorhomes. Electricity and water are provided, but the deal is that you buy a bottle of champagne. euro 16 for first night incl. the bubbly, euro 5 for second night. It’s possible to dump grey water but we were wary of dumping toilet waste in the ground drain. The owner is very friendly and will gladly show you around his cellars under the house. I’ve included a [photo].

Access: from the main road D51 - Epernay-Sezanne, take a narrow side road off the by-pass at Pierry sp. Chavot. On reaching the village turn left along the main street and keep left at a fork. There will be signs directing to "Champagne Lagache-Lecourt", the grower’s name. Turn sharp right at the end of a high wall enclosing another producer’s cellars, the road is steep and narrow in places. Continue up the hill round a bend and between vineyards for about 500m. Lagache-Lecourt is the building complex on the left, but the turn in is at an angle to the roadway 20m. beyond the large wooden doors (the cellars). Difficult turn in may require a two-point turn.

Stunning views. The excellent ‘Premier Cru’ co-operative Nicolas Feuillatte is nearby at Chouilly (entrance from new by-pass), and the aire is about 30 kilometres from the A26 Chalons-en-Champagne/D3 exit. Good area for champagne tasting, plenty of cycling/walking opportunities but quite hilly. [2002]

Hotel ‘Les Charmilles’: we stayed for free on this 'Aire Privée' at Chisseaux on the D40, about 1.5km. from the Chateau. It is the car park of a somewhat run-down Hotel/Restaurant which we presumed had once served the nearby train station. Minimal facilities - 2 outside toilets, also used by drunks late at night! We thought it polite to eat there, the food was acceptable (no choice) and not expensive. We need not have bothered as they did not seem to expect it, and there are better places to eat in the village 500m. away. Another time I think we would park overnight at the Chateau itself. There is a large MH parking space beyond the car and coach park, and in spite of signs forbidding overnight parking there were at least 6 MHs in the parking when we arrived at 0915, several with silver screens over their windows. The Chateau opens at 0900 and it's well worth arriving for the opening. A small queue of people buying tickets had already formed 15 minutes later, 3 coaches had arrived and this was late May. In July & August it must be horrendous.

If wanting a site, there is a camping sign pointing down a narrow track just before the railway line at the exit of the car park. I take this to be the 'Camp Municipal' listed as at 'Fontaine des Pres' under Chenonceaux in the FFCC Guide 37 Indre-et-Loire. The site named 'Le Moulin Fort' under Chenonceaux isn't really anywhere near the Chateau -- it claims 1.5km. but it's the other side of the river at Chisseaux. [1998]

There are in theory three 'aires' at Clairvaux, which is a very popular centre in the 'Lakes' area of Jura. The first, at Bellecroix, is on the D27 out of Clairvaux in the direction of Lons-le-Saunier, just past the ATAC supermarket and opposite the Gendarmerie: it's about 0.75km. from the roundabout at the bottom of the town -- arriving from the south on D27. A proper Raclet 'borne' and 3 or 4 spaces for overnight, marked with low hedges. Perfect! but beside a busy road. There is a sign headed 'Chers Amis Camping-Caristes' which informs of the permitted parking for campervans in Clairvaux. What a pity municipalities in UK don't provide such a welcome. Also the entrance to the Aire carries the only sign which I have seen showing 'No Entry - Except for Camping-Cars' -- it's the supermarket exit road!

The second 'aire' is at 'Le Parterre': this turns out to be a large flat tarmac area beside what appears to be the town concert/music hall (probably what the French term 'salle polyvalente'). To locate this follow the signs for 'Genève' around the town centre one-way system and turn right into the large area in front of a yellow-painted building [see photo]: the authorised sign is under the trees on the right. No 'borne' here for waste disposal or fresh water, but it's a little further away from the road. NB Not useable Wednesday night due to Thursday market.

The third is shown as at 'Promenade des Tilleuls', which is on a hill above the town and considerably more difficult to find. A very attractive location at an avenue of elm trees and near a tennis club but there is a sign at one end 'No Camping-Caravanning', and no obvious place to park overnight except on grass verges. We felt uneasy about stopping here as there were no other camping-cars in situ, so returned to the town 'aire' where we joined 4 other 'vans. In high season there might be many other 'vans at this third aire. [2004]

Clairvaux has several attractive campsites as well, located next to each other on the east side of the lake and reasonably close to the town.

Amenities: Shops, Cafés, Banks

A NOTE ABOUT WASTE DUMPS IN THIS AREA: The 'Aire de Service' listed at Orgeval is a 'Camp-Elec' type which can provide fresh water and electricity but has no road-level grating suitable for fixed tanks, nor from what I could see any place for emptying toilet cassettes. The 'aire' outside the campsite at La Tour-du-Meix Surchauffant' at Lac de Vouglans (a fairly expensive high standard site) is similar, no apparent facility to dump from fixed tanks or empty toilet cassettes.

Camping Municipal 'Saint Vital'

At the southern end of the Voie Verte (see entry for Givry). A very well run municipal site next to the public swimming pool. Large site, some pitches slightly sloping.

Charges euro 11 which is more than most municipal sites in France, but sanitaires 7/10 and it seems good value. The Voie Verte runs behind the site but unfortunately there is no direct access (for security reasons). The TGV line also runs within 200m. at the back of the site but we soon got used to the very frequent trains. [2002]

Amenities: the historic Monastic architecture – Haras National - good cafés and restaurants – the Voie Verte – well-placed for exploring southern Burgundy.

‘Brasserie du Nord’ in Place de l’Abbaye, the square in front of the Abbey: large portions and good for watching the world go by –-

‘Café du Centre’ on rue Municipale, the small street between the Abbaye and rue Lamartine: terrific French bistro ambience, very good ‘plats du jour’ at lunchtime –- arrive much later than 12.15 and it may be full.

‘Hotel de l’Abbaye’ (Logis) on avenue Charles de Gaulle for good food at reasonable prices –- worth a check in advance that they have a table.

‘Auberge du Cheval Blanc’, 1 rue Porte de Macon has a pleasant ambience but prices a little elevated.

I suspect ‘Le Potin Gourmand’ at Place du Champ de Foire probably has the best food in Cluny but we couldn’t get a table on our visit. The ‘Vinothèque’ on rue Municipale has an enviable selection of wines, liqueurs and spirits but elevated prices.

Camping Municipal, follow SP around the edge of the town as the centre is far too narrow for towed caravans or motorhomes to negotiate.

20 pitches under lots of shade, mostly pine trees, with good clean sanitaires 6/10. At euro 7.80 I thought it good value. During the ‘vendange’ itinerant grape pickers occupy the huts on the site, which is part of a ‘complex’ which includes a junior school, library and small open-air theatre. A lovely place but the frantic housebuilding activity going on around the village suggests its character will soon change. [2002]

Amenities: small town with one baker and one ‘alimentation’ shop. The ‘chateau’ in the centre of the village sells wine direct but only on Wednesday and Saturday between 1700 and 1900hrs.

There is an 'aire' on the Champ de Mars, which is in front of a huge factory below the main street. If arriving from Louhans on D972 turn right in the town after a secondary College on your left, the road slopes down with a sharp left turn. The parking area is very large, sloping tarmac and the 'borne' is at the bottom corner. On the Michelin 328 Local map the location is marked with a 'Usine' sign. There was not much noise from the factory when we stayed. Not an appealing place to stop the night but useful if en route to somewhere else. [2002]

Amenities: cafés -- restaurants -- shops etc. nearby.

Recommended: Hotel-Restaurant 'Jean Vuillot'  whose car park is above the 'aire' and is literally 2 minutes away. Bresse specialities including authentic 'Poulet Bressane', and a wider choice of menu as well. Prices moderately high but quality and ambience to match.

This area is a popular tourist destination among the French. The top attraction is the 'Cascades de l'Hérisson', a spectacular series of waterfalls which are well worth visiting [photo]. 'Hérisson' is French for hedgehog but we gathered the name derives from ancient words meaning 'sacred water'. Access from Doucier by the D326 'valley road', which can be easily cycled or is a day's walk as it's mostly flat, passing two lakes on the way. Access to the falls is free but there is a charge for parking where this road ends (and prohibition on motorhomes staying overnight). An alternative is to stay at 'Le Relais de l'Éventail' [photo], a small campsite with a large restaurant attached (not always open) and beyond the parking . Charges 2004 euro 10.80 without electricity -- less good value than Les Mérilles at Doucier but secluded and peaceful out of season. Allow at least a half-day for visiting the falls, the paths are steep and rocky in places. The 'Ferme de l'Aurochs', situated about 1.5km. before the end of the valley road, is a conservation project to maintain stocks of N.American Bison and of Aurochs, a stone-age species of cattle said to be the ancestor of all present domesticated cattle. It is depicted on cave paintings but was finally hunted to extinction in Poland around 1625. The present breed was 'bred-back' from several surviving types, including Highland Cattle, in the early part of C20. Charge to visit euro 5 but it's very interesting, has a 'small animal' farm with the usual (and some unusual) animals and a café/shop with good lunchtime menu using farm produce. The main feature is a farm walk of about 1.5km. to view the cattle, and to see the conservation of 'Jurassic Marais': partially-waterlogged grazing land.

Another possibility is to 'bivouac' at Ilay, from where there is access to the top of the sequence of falls. Turn at the Auberge du Hérisson (reasonable menus) in the direction of Menétrux-en-Joux and there is a large car park on the right side: at the top of this is a flat rocky area used by motorhomes. The paths to the falls start from opposite the entrance to this parking, there are also signs here advertising other eating places. The parking opposite 'Belvédère du Grand Sault' on the D39 Ilay-Doucier road may also be suitable, or a lovely piece of old road just out of Menétrux in the direction of Doucier (care as it may be in use as an access road for logging operations).

‘Place du 8 Mai’: this is off the N70 North of Montceau-les-Mines, and alongside the Canal de Bourgogne where there are at least 7 locks within a short distance. In spite of this promising location the aire is just a grating in the base of a public car park, with a somewhat battered ‘borne’ adjacent. It’s useful for emptying and filling, but did not appeal for an overnight stop. The village, which is strung out along the side of the canal, appears to have one bar and nothing else. [2002] This 'aire' features in the 'Camping-Car' magazine list of "Readers' favourite Aires" -- personally I can't see why.

ENTRE-DEUX-GUIERS (38 Isère): Campsite

'Camping L'Arc en Ciel': in the centre right turn immediately before the bridge over the river Guiers and a few metres down a bumpy track. Flat, grassy, part shaded, electricity available. A few hardstandings for campervans. This site adjoins the river and there are prominent notices about evacuation in case of flooding. Reasonable 'sanitaires' which vary in standard 5/10. Some people prefer pitches on the grass river bank. A good area for cycling. [2002]

Amenities: Cafés -- Pizzeria -- Restaurant -- a few shops -- 'alimentation' -- Poste.

Recommended: 'Chez Baron' the Pizzeria on Place Centrale just a few steps from the campsite, does really good food within its range and prices are moderate. Excellent 'Fondue Savoyard' which comes with delicious boiled potatoes (variety 'Roseval') rather than chips. The Bar on the opposite side of the road has a dining room at the rear where madame will take your order, bring your wine, cook your food and bring it to table -- at least that's how it seemed. Good quality within a restricted menu and very inexpensive. It seems unlikely that this eatery, and thousands of others like it in France, will survive into the next generation. More's the pity.

A walk to the village square where 'La Poste' is a superb piece of 1950s French architecture, and the 'Mairie' qualifies as one of the most unnecessarily large and ornate in relation to the size of the village.

'Le Val d'Été' a charming small campsite in a beautiful rural setting. It's a typical small French site mixing some static 'vans with a grass field for tents, caravans and campervans. Very peaceful out of season but it could be busy in high season! Does not open officially until early July. Located at the beginning of the village when arriving on the D118 from Clairvaux. The Lake of Etival [photo] is charming and perfect for walking or cycling around, there are also waymarked paths through the forests and a 'Belvédère' above the lake. From this belvédère an unmarked but well-used path goes up to the right through the woods to even better viewpoints on the cliff edge - Care required as there is no protection from falling over the edge!

Amenities: Etival does not appear to have any 'commerces', not even a bar (may be some in high season); the next hamlet of Les Ronchaux does have a bar and a butcher -- both firmly closed when we were there mid-June. [2004]

SP from main road in the centre of the village, then turn left in front of the shop/bar and continue up to a ‘Calvaire’, where turn left. Space for about a dozen motorhomes but may be busy in high season as it is fairly close to the A61. Excellent overnight stop. [2002]

Amenities: a very old town with Cathar history – Bar – Baker on main road (excellent variety) – Organic wood-fired Baker in old town near Church (very limited opening times Wednesday afternoon) – Fuel Station with mini-market.

At the western end of the town, where buses turn around. The site has some recreational facilities, a public toilet, a waste dump and a fresh water tap. The waste grating is difficult to use as it’s above the level of the tarmac. Care required to avoid parking where buses or taxis might wish to turn. Suitable for overnight stop using discretion. [2002]

Amenities: the village has none, not even a bar as far as I could see.

'Lac Seine - Forêt d'Orient'. An excellent aire communale with 'borne' sanistation, located opposite the beach area just to the east of Géraudot village on D43 [photo]. Coming from Mesnil St.Père or from Vendeuvre-sur-Barse you can't miss it! The borne works on jetons from the shop beside the beach-side car park. As well as this shop, Géraudot beach has lake swimming, a pizzeria (appears only to open in season) and a mini-golf. There's also a campsite in the trees. The cycle-track around the lake starts from here so it's just as good as the former aire at Mesnil St.Père. Géraudot has a few shops and a bar doing simple meals. There is also an aire listed at Piney, a larger village on the main road about 5km. away. This is beside the former railway station and has a 'borne' as well. There are supposed to be 3 parking spaces for camping-cars here but none are marked out. Piney has better restaurants and facilities including a cash machine at Crédit Agricole. Fuel at an ATAC supermarket at Vendeuvre-sur-Barse -- follow signs for 'P - Centre Commercial', but NB there are 3.5T restrictions at certain points in this small town. [2004]

GIBLES  (71 Saone-et-Loire): Campsite

'Chateau de Montrouant' a listed site SP from the village, from which it is about 1.5km. distant. I have included this as the owner, Jean-Michel Gruel, is one of the friendliest and most helpful site owners I have ever met. He and his wife are true ambassadors for France. The pitches surround his chateau and swimming pool, 'sanitaires' are good 6/10 if in need of a little updating (I believe this is his next project), there is a bar and take-away grill on site with occasional home made pizzas and quiches. Some pitches are on terraces and may be a little difficult to access in poor weather, but Jean-Michel and his tractor are always on hand to help. He has a modest holding of vineyards from which he makes red and white wine without chemical intervention or herbicide, and he will discuss his vinification methods enthusiastically. Brilliant!  The site accepts 'Camping Cheques' in low season. Advance booking usually essential [2002&2004]

Amenities: bar and 'plats' on site -- Baker, Butcher, 'Tabac and Journaux' in the village

Recommended: this is a good if somewhat hilly cycling area -- the Chateau de Drée and La Clayette are within cycling distance. Charolles, Cluny, Chateau de Berzé and Chateau de Pierreclos are a little further afield. Fuel at ATAC supermarket in La Clayette, dir. Semur.

'Louis Callier'  wine merchant and wholesaler at La Clayette: it is behind the 'Sapeurs Pompiers' which is left off the road to Charolles just beyond the roundabout by the Chateau. It looks like the entrance to an industrial estate. Basic very good value Beaujolais (red and white), Regnié and other 'crus'. I found the tasting generous, particularly if M.Callier himself is around. While in La Clayette the cafe 'La Belle Époque' under the plane trees opposite the chateau moat does a good value 'menu du jour'.

Charolles itself is rather too far for an easy cycle ride, but is well worth visiting for its church surrounded by water, its Saturday market and its curious castle mound. In UK I tend to choose Aberdeen Angus or Hereford in preference to Charolais cross beef, but in its place of origin it is sensational -- we bought 'tranches' from 'Debarnot' rue Gambetta 10, in a side street about opposite the front of the church and next to a proper hardware shop. For sheer taste it would be hard to beat this from any source. 2004 update: this butcher has changed hands and the meat did not seem nearly as good. Try 'Courtois' on Ave.Marechal Leclerc instead: a narrowed street a few metres further away from the church. If you park in the 'Place' at the entry to Charolles from N79 East you will walk down Marechal Leclerc to reach the centre. There is a very good café in the street up to the castle on which the tourist office is situated; it's located opposite the fountain, with some tables outside. For a gastronomic experience 'Hotel de la Poste' (not visited in 2002) has very enticing menus, a Michelin 'three knife&fork' entry and a 'Bib Gourmand'. We ate at the 'Poste' in 2004 and very good it is. People come just to eat the 'entrecote' but the table d'hote menus are interesting, excellent quality and very well presented. French gracious eating at its best!

GIVRY (71 Saone-et-Loire): Aire Communale

near Chalon-sur-Saone - Burgundy region

For me one of the all-time great aires. At the centre of Givry, on the D981 ‘Route des Grands Vins’ turn away from the imposing town gate and go past the Church about 300m. until the roadway narrows. Blue sign on the right "P - Voie Verte". Follow this sign and turn in left at the furthest gap into the gravel car park (i.e. before the road turns sharp right). You will have passed the completely free Raclet ‘Borne’ on your right. No electricity but free fresh water in generous quantities and proper dump facilities. Park up on the gravel alongside the former railway line: [photo] shows local cyclists about to set off. We stopped for two nights but it would probably be acceptable to stay longer.

The railway line is the key to this aire: it was closed in 1967, but in 1997 was reopened as a cycleway and footpath. It is flat concrete or tarmac and runs 44km. from Givry to Cluny further south. If you are really fit (Tour de France standard!) you could cycle the return journey in a day. Along the way it passes some of the great vineyards of southern Burgundy. The ‘Conseil General du Saone-et-Loire’ has done a terrific job of re-instating this route and has erected maps and notice boards at the major stops, as well as providing drinking water, toilets and energy drinks (in a vending machine): [photo] shows the map of the northern part of the route as well as two cycle routes around the area.  It’s very popular and much frequented by roller-bladers as well as cyclists. Another attraction is the town of Givry – it has a Thursday morning market, a café-restaurant 'Auberge de la Billebaude' which claims 50 different bottled beers, as well as an excellent restaurant and other watering holes. It is a short distance from the main north-south A6 (about 15km from Chalon-Sud exit), and it seems to be ideal. Plenty of opportunity to buy excellent red wine in Givry, but the next stop south on the Voie Verte is Buxy, which has possibly the best co-operative in the whole of France within 100m of the former station, selling good red and better white wines at all – moderate - price levels. They are also very generous with degustation! It’s 9km from Givry and easily reached within an hour by cycle. The problem of how to carry back wine on a bike is solved by driving to the co-operative when you depart. We also stopped one night on the car park behind Buxy station [ Photo ], this may be problematic in future as the area is due to be redeveloped as a retirement home. [2002 & 2004] It's still undeveloped in 2004.

Restaurant ‘Aux Annees Vins’ at Buxy, next to the ‘Tour Rouge’ wine-tasting cellar which is also (like the restaurant) owned by the Cave Co-operative: excellent food with a very reasonably-priced wine list.

It may also be possible to park adjacent to the ski lifts up at Chinaillon (above Grand Bornand on the road to the Col) , but I personally don't see any advantage in this, the available spaces are filled very early in the day and staying overnight may be less tolerated. MH have been observed 'bivouacing' in Chinaillon at the final turn of the one-way system near the Chatelet chair-lift, just before the bridge over the stream. My observations are based on staying in the village on all-in ski packages. I have not visited in a campervan.

GRANVILLE (50 Manche): Aire Communale

Located above the port at the far end of the promontory, in front of the Aquarium on Boulevard Vaufleury. No signposts for the Aire, take rue du Port, the road which goes along beside the port and at the end goes sharply uphill. At the small roundabout at the top take first exit (right). Payment of euro 4.50 at a machine for overnight parking, but I was told that out of season at weekends it’s unlikely that anyone will come to check. [photo] [2002] I have recently noticed a report in 'Camping-Car' magazine that Granville has placed height barriers on many of its parking areas, but has installed an aire de services. [2007]

Amenities: Lots of Bars – Restaurants, most along the Port – Shops.

Granville is very popular with weekenders and the fish restaurants were filling up by 2030hrs or even earlier. We ate at 'Le Citadelle' on rue du Port, may need to book or turn up early, but there are several other choices on this road. Stunning views over the Port from the Aire. On the D924 road dir. Villedieu is a huge new Leclerc electrical and domestic supermarket, a Leclerc food and clothes shop and other warehouse-type outlets.

Coming from the east on A16 leave at Junction 21A - the next one after the SP for 'Port Rapide-Car Ferry' - take SP Gravelines. From the West it's the junction before the Car Ferry, SP dir. Gravelines. After c.2km. continue ahead (slightly left) at the r'bout dir. Gravelines. Aire is on the right in c.500m., set back from the road but you can't really miss it as it's a 'lay-up' area for trucks and fairground vehicles. There is an MH dump sign 'Station Sanitaire' at the entrance. Has a Flot Bleue borne which is painted red! Grating for waste in the roadway in front of the borne. Has electric sockets and slot requesting 3x €0.50 coins beside a small LCD screen, but I've no idea if this works. According to the Guide des Aires there are 5 to 7 MH parking spaces here, but I couldn't see them and I would not judge it a very sensible place to stop overnight. The Guide lists 3 other Aires de Stationnement in Gravelines town which are likely to be preferable, e.g. Quai Vauban.

HONDSCHOOTE (59 Nord):     Parking

This town in north-eastern France is included as a very pleasant spot to rest for a few hours if you have time before catching a Dunkerque or Calais ferry. It is in the triangle between the A25 Dunkerque-Lille road and the A16 Boulogne-Veurne road. Take the D25 SP Bray-Dunes from the A25 at Junction14 (exit northbound only): this cross-country road has a far better surface than the (still un-improved) A25 and although slower it is much more pleasant to drive on. Follow SP 'Centre Ville' on arriving at Hondschoote, a right-turn at traffic lights and a narrow road up to the Church (visible from a great distance). The road opens out into a large square around the church, where parking should be available if not all occupied. A small alternative parking is SP on the left part-way up the narrow road to the town centre: not so easy to negotiate but unlikely to be full. There is a 'Champion' supermarket off the main square (closed lunchtime). [2004] In 2005 'Camping-Car' magazine reported that there is an aire at the entrance to this town. The location is given as: "at the edge of the town when coming from the A25, beside a parking near a windmill"

Allow up to 1 hour from here to the Dunkerque 'Port Rapide' car ferry terminal, 1hr.30minutes to Calais: it all depends on the state of the A16.

Recommended: Cafe/Bar next to the imposing C16 Town Hall; Boulangerie/Patisserie 'Devos' near the small parking area mentioned. Nowhere to have a full meal unless the restaurant to the left of the town hall re-opens (when we visited it was 'closed awaiting new owners'). The Church [photo] is very imposing, with ornate carved pulpit and plaster altar reredos.

HONFLEUR (14 Calvados): Aire Communale

Listed as Open 1 February - 31 October, Payment for Water and Electricity, and Parking. There is a kiosk for an attendant -- you may be asked to pay even if dumping grey/black waste if the attendant is on site. Authorised for 24hr. stay.

Entering the town from the East on D580 from Pont de Normandie or Pont-Audemer, turn right at second roundabout SP Trouville/Deauville D513, then a Right turn before the picturesque centre of Honfleur and over bridges spanning inner harbours. It's on the virtual island in the middle of the commercial harbour. No marked pitches, a large area of uneven tarmac. No shade. There are likely to be a dozen or more other MHs in residence. This 'aire' is really a large vehicle park and the vicinity was being redeveloped in March 2000 so changes may occur. Service Point with water and electricity on a pillar, grey and black waste dump at ground level but may be very mucky. Only MHs near the pillar able to hook up to electricity. There is another 'aire' SP at a roundabout on the eastern edge of the town: not explored and not listed.

There is also a reasonable campsite: 'Le Phare' on the road which skirts the estuary in the direction of Trouville and Deauville. It does not have much beyond the basic facilities but it is within easy walking distance of the town. A bit noisy due to adjacent road. Listed as open Easter to end September. [2000]

Amenities: Picturesque town - Restaurants esp. seafood - Boat trips - Beaches – Architecture - Cider and Calvados farms in surrounding area - convenient for Le Havre.

Recommended: ‘Au Gars Normand’ 8 quai des Passagers: well-positioned shellfish eatery beside the outer harbour.

‘Au P’tit Marayeur’ 4 rue Haute: very good value shellfish and wetfish restaurant, fills up quickly most evenings, stated to be closed Mon evening/all day Tue.

What France does best -- a municipal site under the trees on the back lawn of a C18 Chateau in the course of restoration. It will be stunning when finished. Nothing apart from basic facilities, a pinned notice requesting payment of FFr.10 for hot showers by 'Étrangers' but hot water on tap even though there were no other campers and no 'gardien'. 3/10 for this. We didn't pay, there wasn't anyone to pay! It might be different in high season but we would still love to go back there. The village has a very good baker with really good value bread and pastries. One 'auberge' -- shut, and one bar/cafe -- open. [1998]

At the Mairie: go past the Church and turn right through an entrance immediately past the Mairie. Flat parking area behind the village hall. I didn’t find water or a waste dump although the Guide lists one. A small rural village. [2002]

Amenities: 2 Bars – Baker – Restaurant which has impressive menu but is rarely open as far as I could tell.

There is another Aire (not in Guide) at ‘Isle de Gué’ down a track at the crossroads where the C5 road off N137 reaches the village, SP ‘Aire de Stationnement’. Go down the track with a ‘dead-end’ sign to a grassy turning area beside a river. It’s a delightful picnic place with a play area, very tranquil but also very isolated. Discretion required if considering it for an overnight stop but this is a quiet rural area.

There is no Aire or campsite close-by but it is possible for a motorhome to stop overnight on the car park which is below ‘La Poste’: turn beside the Poste and then left down a ramp to the flattish area under the trees. Reasonably quiet out of season and well lit. [2002]

Amenities: Old town with faded elegance – Fountains - Shops – Cafes – Casino. The casino drew visitors to the town in its heyday but is now more of an amusement facility with ‘machines à sous’. The town also used to be noted for its charcuterie and there is a museum dedicated to this. I however consider the displays here are a deceit, as the production methods stated to be used today are no longer in keeping with good animal husbandry or quality production, nor with the traditional methods used in the area. I was told all production is ‘industriel’ and none is produced in the open air or by organic methods.

Check a charcuterie label carefully if you don’t want to support factory production: 'Produit Fermier' and 'Production Artisanale' are reasonably safe, 'Issu de l'Agriculture Biologique' with a certification mark is the best guarantee.

Municipal Campsite 'La Chenaie'

The directions and signs at the approach from A26 take the visitor through the lower town and the traffic. Best approach is to continue on the N2/N44 ring road around the South side of the town, exit at 'Carrefour de l'Europe' and follow signs in the direction of the town D5 to 'Parc Foch': this takes you along Rue Jean Monnet and Avenue Marechal Foch. At the roundabout at the end of Av.Foch (imposing military-style buildings on right) take third exit following SP 'Camping'. The campsite is at the end of the somewhat dispiriting road bordered by dilapidated buildings. The campsite however is good and has a newly installed Raclet Mini 'borne'. Washing facilities 7/10. No restaurants or shops nearby, and it would be a stiff climb up to the 'plateau' or Upper Town where the sights are. A good night halt not far from the autoroute. The camping has a small shop, bread and croissants can be ordered. Frites and 'croque monsieur' may be available in season. Charges euro 10.00 without electricity [2004]

Amenities: none in the vicinity of the camping; Laon 'plateau' has excellent cafés, restaurants and sights. An unusual monorail system takes visitors up the other side of the plateau from the railway station. It's made by POMA, the ski-tow company, and is SP 'Poma'. Worth a trip for the experience.

Outside the camping is a medium-sized artificial lake which provides some walking exercise (and fishing). Next to it is a large mainly sloping tarmac car park which could with discretion provide an overnight 'bivouac' if the campsite should be full or closed.

near Abbeville. We visited to look at the place and eat lunch. Signs banning MHs at the centre where most of the eateries are, there is an 'Aire Communale' listed on the town map and in the Guide but it's about 1km. from the centre to the North-West up the coast. The road to it was being rebuilt when we visited so we could not access it although it appears to be 'in the middle of nowhere'. We did see two MHs which turned up in the centre and disappeared round a corner to one of the quays so there may be parking possible. Nevertheless we enjoyed a moderately-priced shellfish lunch and Le Crotoy is definitely tourist-oriented and worth visiting. There are 'campings' everywhere on the approaches to the town, most of them looked depressingly 'Loisirs' (statics) and we didn't fancy them. [2000]

Opale Évasion, Aeroport du Touquet. Open all Year, NO CHARGE. From Etaples cross estuary and follow SP le Touquet, then fork Right at traffic lights with SP 'Aeroport'. Follow SP 'Aeroport' along Avenue du Golf and straight ahead at a roundabout after c. 500m. Turn Right at next main intersection. At a recent visit this was not SP 'Aeroport'. After c. 300m. turn Left at signs for 'Aviation' -- it's not very clear and does not look like an airport road. Opale Evasion is to the left of the Airport buildings, the 'Raclet' Service Point is outside the hangar-like building on the left past the trees. Overnight parking available in front of the trees. Take advantage of the opportunity to scrutinise some continental MHs. The Airport has a '2 knife&fork' restaurant, listed as closed second half November/1st.week December, and on Thursdays outside school holidays. [2000]

Amenities: Motorhomes to view – Restaurant - Airport viewing - Exploring Le Touquet by bike -- MHs not welcome in the town or by the sea front.