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Spain
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Spain
‘Cal Morell’ Paseig de l’Estacio 18
Go over the ‘Pont Nou’ from the old town, heading for the railway station. It’s on the right among other shops and isn’t particularly obvious from outside.
This is a Spanish institution, the owner has almost single-handedly maintained the best traditions of Spanish regional cooking. Entrance vestibule covered in photographs of famous people who have eaten here, the welcome is warm and genuine, the food first class. Prices extremely reasonable, not cheap but excellent value with a range of interesting wines hardly found outside the region. [2000] http://www.svt.es/calmorell
FRAGA (Province of Osca, Aragon): Campsite
HU-01 ‘Camping Fraga’, on the main road N11 from Barcelona to Zaragoza and Bilbao. The autopista goes nearby but is a toll road so all the trucks go through Fraga. I can hardly recommend this site but it does have its charms, situated as it is between the local rubbish dump (not visible but can smell if the wind is in the 'wrong' direction) and an industrial park which is being aggressively expanded (lorry noise from 0530). It's a large site but MHs are placed on gravel hardstanding - no marked pitches and it seems up to the site owner how many 'vans are fitted in. Only 2 others when we were there. Bar, restaurant and swimming pool on site. The swimming pool was very clean and available for use, it looked as if the owner was also fitting out an outdoor disco for high season use. The site is on the side of a hill, the sunsets are wonderful and there is an interesting view over the town of Fraga. There is supposed to be hot water but we didn't find any. But the washroom for 'minusvalidos' (handicapped persons) was among the best I have seen and the standard of the other washrooms was good -- 5/10 or 6 if hot water available. Spanish electric hook-up sockets but a long 25m. lead may be required. Ptas. 4400. This may be high season price. [2000]
Recommended: in the town, Bar-Braseria ‘Jeff’ at calle San Quintin 12: only a simple ‘comedor’ in a bar but good local fare on the ‘menu del dia’. In autumn the sausage and snail stew is divine!
LIGUERRE-DE-CINCA (Aragon): Campsite
HU-27 ‘Camping Liguerre’. South of Ainsa on the A138 road to Barbastro. I liked this site enormously, my partner was less enthused. A very large site situated alongside part of a reservoir created by damming the river Cinca during Franco's era, reputedly this was done to dispossess the Aragonese of their land as they were vehemently opposed to his regime. This site is part of new efforts to revitalise the area and bring back employment and tourists. Excellent showers and wash facilities 7/10, copious hot water. The pitches are long and narrow, very suitable for towed caravans or tents, but in high season could be rather cramped if pitches on either side are occupied. Some pitches have a gentle slope, but there are totally flat pitches at the bottom of the site beside tennis/boules. Electricity available on some pitches - Spanish sockets. Possibility of watersports on the reservoir, swimming pool and children's pool on site (occupied by frogs when we were there). Bar, restaurant and shop on site (shop not open when we were there) and easy to find -- it's right on the main road with one of the Spanish half-circle left turns if coming from the north. Ptas. 1628. It helps to be able to speak a little Spanish. http://www.liguerredecinca.com [2000]
Amenities: the campsite is away from any town, but there are walking possibilities along the reservoir and many activities in season. Within driving distance of the Ordesa National Park, Ainsa, Barbastro and the Monasterio de San Victorian. The vast modern monastery of Torreciudad, monument to Josemaria Escriva and Opus Dei, is on the other side of the reservoir.
Recommended: a visit to Ainsa, the lower town isn't much to shout about but the old restored upper town is gorgeous, with some good restaurants in Plaza Mayor and panoramic views from the battlements of the castle. Vultures and other birds of prey may be seen. I ate at 'Bodegas del Sobrarbe', in former cellars providing quality food at reasonable prices.
The Monasterio de San Veturián (or San Victorián or San Beturián), founded in the 6th. Century and reputedly the oldest monastery in Spain [ photo ], is about 10km. distant from Ainsa in a straight line but rather more than that on the road. Head across the river Cinca and take a left turn following directions to Arro, then left to Los Molinos. A good map is really essential. Beyond that you are on your own, but take care to fork left at a point where the road is going uphill among some trees (No SP!). Eventually the road becomes broken concrete slabs across a hillside (much care needed) and ends at a turning point in front of the ruined monastery [ photo ] where a marriage in the 7th.Century between the Duke of Barcelona and Petronilla (or 'Patornilha'), daughter of the King of Aragon, cemented the union of Aragon and Catalonia. There is a weblink from the Liguerre de Cinca website under 'rutas'. It is accessible by small campervan (mine is 5.6m. long) but requires a good ‘nose’ to locate as signposts are non-existent. According to GoogleEarth it is at N 42º27'27.51 and E 0º13'14.44 at an elevation of 3607ft. but I would treat this with caution. The monastery was the subject of a debate in the 'Cortes of Aragon' in 1997, concerning restoration. It is in a stunning location high in the Pyreneen foothills, for me it’s a magic place with 'aura', and the monastery may now be in process of restoration [ photo ]. There are 'warning - no entry - dangerous building ' signs around the outside but I hope it may in future be open to the public [ photo ]. Take binoculars to view vultures and eagles. Eat at Bar-Restaurante ‘Los Molinos’ which you will have passed on the way up. A more recent report in 2002 on a Spanish website (2006 - no longer accessible) confirms that reconstruction has begun - hurrah!, so the edifice may not be accessible for some period of time. It's still worth a visit for the views and the possibility of seeing birds of prey. There is a tough cycle route which includes the monastery and has slight information on it: http://www.geocities.com/colosseum/field/3844/rutas2.htm and more historical detail at http://www.elpueyodearaguas.com/ruta_sanvictorian.html Both websites in Spanish language.
Barbastro to the south I thought a soulless town though it has an excellent restaurant 'Flor' in a scruffy street (Goya, 3) near the centre. However in the vicinity is the Somontano wine region, providing excellent and reasonably priced 'varietal' wines. There is a 'Wine Museum' on the edge of the town but I didn't find it anything special. Head out of town towards Pozan de Vero and Alquezar (there are SP to the 'winery district'). Firstly you will encounter:
Bodega Pirineos' on the left: park outside and head for 'Recepción'. They do a brisk trade with coach parties and expect you to know what you want, tasting may be available if they are not busy. Try Montesierra Joven and Montesierra Crianza, Moristel (varietal) and 'Senorio de Lazan' Reserva. Prices very moderate and they don't speak English. http://www.bodega-pirineos.com Worth following the link to see a cute website.
Then a little further on the right 'Vinas del Vero', an ultra-modern winery and welcoming tourist-oriented recepción, where tasting is offered generously with prices (and quality) a little higher than Pirineos. Try Cabernet-Sauvignon 'San Marcos' and 'Duque de Azara' Crianza, the white 'Clarion' and 'El Enebro' Gewurztraminer. http://www.vinasdelvero.es/espanol/vinasdelVero.html
Lastly there is 'Bodegas Lalanne' in the area beyond Vinas del Vero where the road forks: take the left fork then turn right along a narrow track in the belt of trees behind the vines, the winery is hidden in the trees. Again generous tasting but this is a family business and ringing the bell beside the huge doors may not always produce a response. Wines in an 'old-fashioned' style in the low to moderate price range. Try 'Vina San Marcos' and Lalanne Reserva reds. The French-sounding name is due to the family emigrating from Bordeaux over the Pyrenees when phylloxera devastated that area in the 19th. century. They don't seem to have their own website but http://www.accua.com/bodega/conten/BOD1075.asp has information and some history.
The Enate winery is at Salas Bajas on the road to Naval (not visited but has a good reputation). http://www.enate.es/enaeng/intro/intro.htm
MONFERRER (Catalunya): Campsite
L-036. 'Gran Sol'. Just to the south of Seu d'Urgell below Andorra. A site behind and to the side of a large bar/restaurant on the roadside N260. Mostly flat grass and plenty of shade, some slightly sloping pitches further back. Good showers and washrooms, 6/10, but we could find no outside taps anywhere for water to fill our MH. Our 10m. water cassette just reached from an inside tap. There were water fountains marked on the site map and actually present but none of them had any water! Nowhere in showers to put soap and flannel. Main road could be a bit noisy for pitches nearer to it. [2000]
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